Nothing says summer/bikini season like sampling a restaurant’s entire dessert menu in one sitting. And nothing brightens a Monday more than photos of the decadent, frozen, chocolatey, key lime pie-y desserts I apologetically devoured by the plateful last week. It was a tough decision, but I’ve decided to embark on a taste test of Miami’s best dessert menus and report back on my favorite, and least favorite, dishes. Actually, I lied, it was probably the easiest, fattest decision I’ve ever made. FYI pastry chefs: I’m a’comin and I’m a sucker for super dark chocolate and anything beignet-esque.
First stop: The Dutch. Everyone knows Joshua Gripper is one badass pastry chef. His confections are complex, flavorful, and comforting. When he serves key lime pie, he makes sure its the best damn version of key lime pie you’ve ever had. His creamy, flavorful ice creams are some of the most delicious I’ve tasted.
The chocolate souffle, although airy and not too sweet, was a bit too eggy and would have benefited from a stronger chocolate flavor. However,the ice cream more than made up for it. The pistachio ice cream was extremely decadent and rich, and I loved what appeared to be a pistachio crumble underneath. The chef really nailed the texture components in this dish, with the soft, cakey souffle, creamy ice cream, and crunchy, salty pistachios.
The almond semifreddo with orange granita and fresh raspberries was the most unique dish we ate. It wasn’t ice cold, yet it wasn’t room temperature. It had a custard-meets-ice cream-meets-almond paste texture and I couldn’t put my spoon down. Amidst the soft semifreddo were dots of what tasted like crunchy almond paste. The granita and berries added a tartness to the sweet dessert. I would definitely order this again.
The salted lime pie with coconut ice cream was a traditional and well-executed key lime pie. I appreciated the large piece of tangy, simple pie atop a crumbly graham cracker crust, opposed to the deconstructed versions popping up on menus all over town. The coconut ice cream was to die for. The coconut flavor shined and the consistency was a bit melty, but in the best way possible. I loved the shredded, toasted coconut underneath for a bit of a crunch. Great dessert. The little plate of bland blondies were more of an afterthought. Chunks of white chocolate, butterscotch, or even more vanilla would have elevated the baked squares.
We could have sat in The Dutch’s relaxing outside area for hours. Also worth noting was the impeccable service. Our glasses were always filled, menu questions were answered, and suggestions were helpful and appreciated. Highly recommend checking out The Dutch.
Next, we visited Jamie DeRosa’s Tongue & Cheek. The gorgeous, dimly lit restaurant was decently packed at 9:30 on a Wednesday night. I’d been eagerly awaiting T&C’s dessert menu all day, which had hints of the playful, flavor-packed dishes I knew and loved at Tudor House. The menu boasted deconstructed, yet easily identifiable, versions of some of my favorite desserts: peach cobbler, strawberry shortcake, and rocky road ice cream. While I loved the whimsical riffs on classic dishes, each plate only had one main element: ice cream. I was craving the other components that, albeit present on the plate, lacked in substance. Maybe the chefs were having an off night, but I spent the evening trying to collect cookie dust and crumbles onto my spoonful of ice cream in hopes of getting a full bite. I’ve tasted Chef Jamie DeRosa’s cooking many, many times. In fact, I spent the good part of 2011-12 eating his pork belly pot pies, fried chicken, and buttered popcorn milkshakes. Unfortunately, the desserts I tried at T&C were not representative of his skillz.
I was seriously looking forward to the summer peach cobbler with milk crumbs and caramel bourbon ice cream. I love chunks of warm, spiced peaches topped with crumbly, flaky dough and ice cream melting into the nooks and crannies of said crumbles. I dug my spoon into what I thought would be a thin layer of topping to hit the peaches, however, I only found a half inch of syrupy, almost non-existent peaches below the thick topping. Oddly, the cast iron dish wasn’t even warm, so the ice cream just sat idly on top. The spiced sauce severely overpowered the delicate peaches to the point of being inedible. My guest was confused why the marscarpone ice cream on the next dish had spice in it. We realized that the peach sauce actually numbed her taste buds. I’m not kidding. Also, the crumble-to-peach ratio was about 10:1. I was really disappointed with this dessert and would not order it again unless I get at least one whole peach slice, a delicate sauce, and a piping hot cast iron bowl.
Beautiful dish of deconstructed strawberry shortcake. Poor execution. There was basically nothing to eat on this plate. The ice cream was a bit flavorless, the cookies were malleable, and everything else was freeze-dried. It tasted like space ice cream. I also didn’t realize the dish was supposed to have lemon curd until I just looked at the menu. I was craving the spongy cake and light, airy cream typically associated with shortcake. I appreciate the interpretation, but if you’re going to change up a classic dessert, knock it out of the park.
The rocky road was my all-time favorite dessert at Tudor House. The crunchy dark chocolate chunks, bittersweet ice cream, and toasty, sticky marshmallow layers. I understand the need to change things up, but this is a perfect example of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. The ice cream was still super dark, rich, and delicious, but the awkward circle shape made me chase it around the plate as it rolled out from under my spoon. I loved the marshmallow dots, and liked the concept of tangy, sugared kumquats to add a pop of color and tang, but they were dripping with sugar glaze and detracted from the dish. Also, both times I’ve visited T&C, the service was noticeably poor. The staff seems to congregate to chat at the bar instead of making sure that their customers, who are visibly searching for their waiters, are happy. At The Dutch, it was obvious that our server was passionate and knowledgeable about both the food and the restaurant itself, whereas T&C’s servers merely dropped off the plates without explanation, never to be seen again.
Next stop on the Summer Sweets dessert tour: Wynwood Kitchen & Bar and Sugarcane.